Situated 190 miles (300km) southwest of Delhi, Jaipur is an essential stop in any tour of Rajasthan. The old walled section of the city is known as the Pink City; it was painted red (a lucky colour in Hindu culture) to welcome England’s Prince Alfred in 1853 and the fading old buildings retain their hue. Jaipur is one of India’s newer cities, founded in 1727, and was the creation of Jai Singh II, the Maharaja of the Kuchwaha Rajputs, who decided when Mogul power was on the decline to move from his outmoded hillside fortress at Amber to establish a new capital on the plains further south.

The Pink City was built in only eight years. Much of it was designed by Jai himself, including the City Palace and the Jantar Mantar, a fascinating astronomical observatory with massive instruments used to predict the monsoon and identify the movements of the stars. Most impressive is a 27 metre high sundial that is accurate to the nearest two minutes. All seven gates into the old city remain, one of which leads into Johari Bazaar - the famous jewellers' market that has the best selection of precious stones in India.

Jaipur is now a thriving commercial city and at the last count it was home to two million people. Although some visitors are put off by the over zealous traders, most are enthralled and enchanted by this still-welcoming city.