During the Crusades Richard the Lionheart visited the Cypriot city of Limassol (then known as Lemesos) to free his betrothed from the Byzantine sovereign. The subsequent wedding became a party that is legendary still today, which is probably why modern Limassol is still a centre of nightlife and joie de vivre. This lively ambience is also aided and abetted by the fact that Limassol is the centre of winemaking on the island. The city has concentrated its efforts in recent years on mercantile development and modernising its buildings. Unlike other Cypriot cities it has not protected its architectural or cultural heritage, but with its many excellent hotels it does offer a good base for visitors who can head for the hills after whooping it up under the city’s bright lights. The foothills of the Troodos Mountains lie north of the city and offer charming country walks that meander through friendly villages. There are also some good beaches on the outskirts of the city, most of which belong to hotels which charge an entrance fee for non-guests. The sandy beach of Avmidou, located on the grounds of the British military base of Akrotiri, is open to the public.